From Civil War to Conservation: Indigenous-led Tourism in Sierra Nevada, Colombia

This is an article about a civil war, a caterpillar and a mountain of water.

Fig. 1 Lost City located in the Sierra Nevada.

At the summit of a gruelling hike, nestled high in the Sierra Nevada mountain range lies the Lost City, untouched by Western civilisation because it was simply too difficult to get to (Fig.1). In 2012 my Colombian father completed the newly-established ‘Lost City Trek’, returning with stories of the abundant wildlife and pristine landscapes. Following in his footsteps 11 years later, it was clear that the waves of tourists had left their mark.

Sierra  Nevada (SN) lies within Tayrona National Park on the Caribbean coast of Colombia. Home to a rich abundance of native wildlife, the UNESCO-recognised biosphere is beautiful to look out on (1). But, in-between the pools of sunlight the rainforest holds a dark history of 70 years of political conflict. The land rights for Tayrona now lie with the local Indigenous Communities who regulate tourist access (1). This offers a unique opportunity to assess how indigenous-led tourism influences the local community and conservation efforts.

Community Impact

Indigenous Communities (IC) claim guardianship over their land and express a high level of self-determination to preserve their environment (2). Whether this stems from dependency on subsistence farming or cultural beliefs, indigenous land presents lower levels of deforestation and higher levels of biodiversity than both protected and non-protected areas (2). However, in Colombia this narrative has been disrupted by the civil war. Until 2006, paramilitaries controlled the area, destroying the environment and cultivating illicit substances for sale (1). This is a story of post-conflict recovery. As statistics cannot convey the depth of change that tourism has influenced in the region, we need to talk to the local communities.

Elber Piedrahita was born in Santa Marta and has worked in the Colombian tourist industry for 25 years. He has seen the terrible impact of the civil war and in our interview, he describes how the increase in tourism has been immensely economically and socially transformative (3). Tourism also directly benefits the IC, Elber explains that for each tourist that enters the park, irrespective of which tour company, a tax is paid (3). This income strengthens the IC, evident in the schools and roads currently under construction. However, when questioning a Wayuu tribe member, he did not seem as enthusiastic about the tourists as Elber.

Influence on Conservation Action  

Elber paints a positive picture of the influence of tourism on conservation action (3). In line with the increasing economic value, he explains that the perception of wildlife has shifted and there is an increasing eco-consciousness amongst SN residents (3). Elber also highlights that to achieve a greener future, this conservation-focused perspective needs to be fostered in the younger generations (3). Indigenous-led programs to re-forest the decimated landscape have been developed and in 2022 a new agreement was signed to expand the borders of Tayrona National Park (4). This progress may be key to achieving the 2030  conservation aims set by the Centre for Biological Diversity. Conservation action within indigenous land falls under ‘Other Effective Area-Based Conservation Measures’ (2). This form of community-based conservation is being increasingly recognised for its value and success (1).

Fig. 2 The venomous caterpillar form of Automeris metzil. Found on Day 3, directly within the Lost City

However, tourism undeniably influences native wildlife. Human disturbance and hiking trails can fragment populations and alter animal behavioural patterns. In August 2023, during my four-day hike into the Colombian rainforest, the most exciting wildlife I saw was a caterpillar (Fig. 2). Putting my personal disappointment aside, we need to step back and look at the big picture. Localised environmental sacrifices may be outweighed by the holistic increase in conservation action, facilitated by the eco-tourism industry (1).

Soil Degradation

Fig. 3 Visual evidence of soil erosion. Soil degradation is highlighted by (A) and an arrow and (B) indicate surface run-off.

Take nothing but memories and leave nothing but footprints’, is a common phrase used to highlight sustainable travel philosophies. But our footprints are carving their way into the earth, literally.

For the past two years I have worked as research assistant alongside soil scientists. Soil is essential to maintaining ecosystems and supporting biogeographic processes (5). When trekking through SN, it was clear to see how years of hiking and camp construction had transformed the forest paths into muddy wastelands (Fig. 3).

Footsteps compact the soil, reducing water infiltration to underground reserves (5). SN is known as a ‘mountain of water’ and the extreme rainfall it receives exacerbates this problem, causing soil erosion and habitat destruction. As we hiked, I talked to my father about the decreasing soil stability, it can have long-term impacts on water availability to plants and influence nutrient cycling or biological processes (5). As I’m sure you can imagine, in the 35-degree weather he was thrilled to listen to a biology lecture!

However, the reality may not be as bleak as my observations conclude. The IC that reside within Tayrona frequently close the park for spiritual cleansing. This can offer the land a reprieve from our boots and allow primary vegetation to colonise the muddy paths, increasing soil stability. This indirect benefit offers an example of how indigenous-led tourism may limit environmental destruction. However, care needs to be taken to ensure that the beautiful environments we visit, don’t end up trampled beneath our hiking boots.

Conclusion

Eco-tourism is fundamentally a balancing act between economic gain and environmental preservation. The echoes of the civil war are still present in the Colombian landscape and the people, so only time will tell how successfully the indigenous communities handle this balance. However, the indigenous-led tourism of Sierra Nevada provides hope for sustainable tourism and tangible conservation outcomes. Hopefully, one day I’ll see more than just caterpillars!

References

1. Helena, L. and Zielinski, S. (2022). Community-based tourism, social capital, and governance of post-conflict rural tourism destinations: the case of Minca, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Colombia. Tourism Management Perspectives, [online] 43, pp.100985–100985. doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tmp.2022.100985.
2. Sze, J.S., L. Román Carrasco, Childs, D.Z. and Edwards, D.P. (2021). Reduced deforestation and degradation in Indigenous Lands pan-tropically. Nature Sustainability, [online] 5(2), pp.123–130. doi:https://doi.org/10.1038/s41893-021-00815-2.
3. Piedrahita, Elber. Discussion of the impact of tourism in Sierra Nevada. Conducted by 22221348 on the 8^th November 2023. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpjYKrnCkbc
4. Globalconservation.org. (2023). GC Mission to Sierra Nevada and Tayrona National Parks Colombia | News | Global Conservation. Available at: https://globalconservation.org/news/gc-mission-sierra-nevada-and-tayrona-national-parks-colombia/.
5. Leonardo, Aline Muniz Rodrigues, Maria, Guerra, A., Booth, C.A. and Fullen, M.A. (2022). Detrimental effects of tourist trails on soil system dynamics in Ubatuba Municipality, São Paulo State, Brazil. CATENA, [online] 216, pp.106431–106431. doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/j.catena.2022.106431.